Your Corner of the World

Yes, after way too long, I am back on the blog that started my career.  While my other works on religion have been important, I should have never lost sight of the fact that Baystride Images Journal is my original creation.  This is where I expressed my passion to photograph and write about the corner of the world that I love.  I have been re-inspired by a great speech from a wonderful conference.

I am in Hampton for the National Association of Interpretation National Workshop learning skills to become more proficient at my job.  This morning’s address was given by Ned Tillman.  Ned has been a leader in conservation projects along the Chesapeake Bay for years.  Hearing him speak about the beauty of the bay, the problems and threats to its health caused by us humans, and the reasons why we must restore this precious waterway back to health could not have been given by some mere academic who doesn’t know a “rockfish” from a rock lobster.  The man is a native of the Maryland stretch of the Chesapeake and speaks from the heart.  I will soon dig into my autographed copy of The Chesapeake Watershed:  A Sense of Place and a Call to Action. 

Ned Tillman (© John Gresham)

All of us who heard his address were reminded of the reason why we are park interpreters.  Part of our job is to encourage people to love our corner of the world.  I have met Alaskans, Pennsylvanians, and colleagues from places in between.  I am sure that when they return to their workplaces, a part of Tillman’s message will be shared with each one of their guest.

I believe with my blog articles in Virginia Outdoors, I have been effective in showing people how special of a place the York River State Park is.  But, my corner and love extends past Croaker and Riverview Roads.  I have seen snow geese take off from Hughlett’s Point, croaker get hooked on a lure near  the Parrot Islands, falling water near the Blue Ridge, and a beaver dam beside my parent’s house on Jacks Creek.  The Virginia State Parks will not pay me for this blog.  I have to make the sacrifice of time and effort to show how much I care about these and other places.

I apologize for taking so long to write here.  I’ll be back in two weeks.   New photos will be posted around Thanksgiving.

Jaygresh

The Baystrider

Escaped to Mathews!

It used to be a bi-weekly thing.  I’d throw my kayak on top of the car, grab my fishing and camera gear, put a few bucks in my wallet and hit Route 14 until I couldn’t go any further east.  For years, Mathews County has been my summer hang out.  The public beaches attract wild birds more than sunbathers.  Kayak anglers can find almost anything swimming in the marshes.  The Saturday farmer’s market offers a variety of food and crafts.  How could anyone hate a mostly rural county surrounded by water and possessing no traffic lights?

At Low Tide (© John Gresham)

I barely stepped foot in Mathews in about a year.  Work caught up with me.  Being a ranger and pastor doesn’t lend me to much free time.  Oddly enough, I have been a bit more interested in hiking in the mountains rather than hunting for Oystercatchers.  Constantly shooting and blogging for the park and my recent pursuit of Orthodox Christianity has made my passion for pleasure photography dwindle.

Untitled (© John Gresham)

I couldn’t let the summer pass by without reigniting my love for the place (and the blog) that led me out of a basement in Richmond.  With the Pamunkey Baptist Association Annual Session out-of-the-way and having to lead a canoe trip on Thursday, I made sure the lawn and other chores were taken care of Friday.  Even though my time was limited by other responsibilities, I had to make an escape to Mathews Saturday morning.

Marsh Master (© John Gresham)

I was expecting higher winds.  But the Chesapeake Bay was rather calm at Bethel Beach.  I probably could have launched my kayak in it.  The colors at sunrise were fine for a couple of good images.  Returning to my car to switch lenses, an Osprey was kind enough to pose perfectly with the sunlight at it’s back.  I was a bit frustrated with myself for letting my skills wane a bit as  a couple of Dunlin and Wilson’s Plovers fed along the gently crashing waves.  Even at low tide, I couldn’t cross the narrow channel that cut an island from the rest of the beach.  But, I thought the sand flat would be a great area to create a panorama or two.

After a couple of hours, I pulled into Winter Harbor Haven and saw that a few kayakers had already hit the water.  If it weren’t for a sermon and eulogy I had to develop, my Pungo 14o would be in Horn Harbor hunting for croakers, red drum, and speckled trout.  Driving back through town, I had to make two stops.  A couple of guys were selling fresh Carolina shrimp from the back of a truck.  Eating the farm-raised variety for over a year, it was refreshing to taste the real McCoy again.  A little sugar baby watermelon from the farmer’s market made a good desert with grilled shrimp.

BBQ Shrimp (© John Gresham)

My Saturdays in August and September will be booked at work.  So, I will take a couple of days off during the week those months and make more escapes to the land and waters of my ancestry.  I hope some fish will be there to greet me as well.

Taskinas Creek Trail: In The Heart Of The Marsh

Yes, it is open again!  The Taskinas Creek Trail at York River State Park was renown as one of the best hikes east of I-95.  Due to storm damage, it was closed to the public for two years.  Park staff and volunteers worked hard to re-route and restore the trail.  Despite some significant changes, Taskinas Creek is a hike that is winning praise in the region for it’s physical challenge, views of wildlife, and unique beauty.

Taskinas Creek at Sunset (© John Gresham)

The long bridges across the freshwater streams at the beginning of the trail are gone.  Yet, hiking along the smaller crossings still provides guest with an idea of how estuarine creeks and rivers begin as mere trickles of water at the bottom of a hill.  As they flow, these streams get broader turning the surrounding lowland into bogs.  A variety of frogs, turtles, and other creatures can be found here.

The freshwater bogs give way to an open canopy marsh and cord grass as hikers reach the first Marsh Overlook.  The stream meets the larger Taskinas Creek at the Heron Overlook.  This is a great place to spot both the Great Blue Heron and the smaller Green Heron.  At low tide, Fiddler Crabs can be seen scurrying around for hiding places.  High tides bring Muskrat and Killifish swimming right underneath the overlook.

Flying Lesson (John Gresham/DCR)

After an elevation change, hikers are rewarded with the Osprey Overlook.  An Osprey nesting platform stands between  two bends in the creek.  These expert anglers reside here from March until September to raise their young.  This year, we have two chicks on the nest in the creek.  The platform was installed by a local Boy Scout working on his Eagle Badge.  An overlook named for our national bird can be found on a small spur trail before ascending on another hill.  Bald Eagles can be seen at the park year round, perhaps more frequently when the Osprey are back in Latin America for the winter.

Along the Creek (John Gresham/DCR)

A challenging ravine follows lined with Mountain Laurels.  In May, this is one of the most beautiful parts of the hike.  Ascending to the final hill is the spur leading to the Kingfisher Overlook.  Fans of the original trail will remember how the long bridge used to cross a section of the marsh.  A portion of the bridge was removed due to constant erosion damage.  But, a substantial section remains as an overlook that is perfect for wildlife viewing, photography, and waving to the canoeist and kayakers as they explore the creek.  Returning from the spur, the final leg of the hike is relatively broad with only slight elevation changes until completing the loop to the first two ravines.

New Trail Map (John Gresham/DCR)

As unbiased as I can be, this is the best hiking trail on the  peninsula.  I doubt if there is anything quite like it along the Chesapeake Bay.  The elevation changes will impress the most avid outdoors adventurers.  Birders and photographers can enjoy the diversity of nature’s beauty.  Environmental educators will find it a great learning lab for geology as well as ecology.  Make plans to visit the Taskinas Creek Trail at York River State Park.  Parking at the park is only $2 per vehicle on weekdays, $3 on weekends.  Visit the Virginia State Parks blog for stories about the trail and other items of interest at York River and around the state.

Benefits of Plan B

You would think that with “Gresham’s Law*” being a part of our lives that everyone would have some sort of back up plan for their outdoor adventures.  I used to be one of those poor souls.  I would come home in a foul mood if the fish weren’t biting, the weather turned bad, or if some other complication would arise just to ruin my day or weekend off.  Now, getting skunked or soaked no longer is something that I dread.  I look to my alternatives.

Water Meets Stone and Moss (© John Gresham)

My camera goes wherever I go.  I may not take it in the kayak while fishing.  But, if the day is especially bad, I can get some landscape and wildlife images in.  I have access to a couple of good point-and-shoot cameras when I backpack.  If I change my mind, “The Brick” (my Pentax K200D) is in the trunk for a shorter walk and better photos.  No matter what level photographer you are, a camera is a great thing to have.  Capturing a few good scenes can make a bad day better.

My appetite and taste buds are a part of me.  Having a few bucks while traveling can open one up to a culinary adventure when the waters and trails prove uncooperative.  Bypass the typical chain restaurants and fast food.  Local diners and dives have offerings that you just may not find at home.  You may even be inspired to buy the ingredients and try making the meal at home.

In this age of social media, we have forgotten what it is to have a good book on hand.  Yeah, Kindle and Nook may have their advantages.  But, there is something about the feel of hardbound or paperback that makes reading a holistic experience.  Some communities have neat local papers and magazines that beckon even the most discouraged adventurer to come back and try again next time.

A Friendly Local (© John Gresham)

This past Monday was to be my epic mountain adventure of the year.  I was going on a solo backpack of Crabtree Falls and The Priest.  I told everyone that I was going to make the climb on Monday, crash at the shelter, make my way down Tuesday, and use Wednesday to recuperate.  When I got to Massies Mill, I couldn’t even see the mountains due to the thick fog.  To make matters worse, the weatherman called for rain and thunderstorms all day and evening.  A 18 mile round trip solo hike in bad weather on some trail I wasn’t familiar with didn’t seem like a great idea to me.

So, I went to plan B.  I grabbed the “brick” and captured some waterfall images along Crabtree and the Tye River.  Unfortunately, the Country Store in Montebello didn’t take my ATM card.  The UVA Credit Union in Nellysford was available.  I found a great little Italian joint that had a used book exchange.  They didn’t have anything I was interested in.   But, I did pick up the “Appalachian Voice.”  Being discouraged about not being able to execute my original plan would have been self-defeating.  Enjoying the alternatives has given me an appreciation for Nelson County and a marinated beef and turkey sandwich with cheese.

*“Everything that can go wrong will go wrong.”  I wrote that on a post it note with no adhesive.  Some guy named Murphy picked it up, got the copyrights, and made millions.

Pork Barbecue Burger? Why not?

Has this ever happened to you?  You crave a pulled pork barbecue sandwich.  But, you don’t have hours to tend to a shoulder or even a rack of baby backs on the pit.  There is time for grilling a hamburger.  But, 80/20 ground beef isn’t the same as (and less healthy than) pork.   The local joint is either too expensive or doesn’t season the pig like you do.  What a country boy culinary nightmare.  Well, wake up buddy!  There is a solution in your local grocery store that will be easy on your wallet, healthier than a fast food burger, and will give you the flavor of well smoked barbecue.  Ground pork.

Take a pound of ground pork and mix in your favorite rub, or plain old salt and pepper.  Make patties and put them in the fridge until you are ready to cook.  Use whatever wood chip variety you wish with your grill.  When the smoke is rising, grill your burgers until they are well done.  Top with your favorite sauce and cole slaw on a plate or bun.  This may not have the heritage of a pig on a pit.  But, if you are too busy and broke, the pork barbecue burger may be the best substitute to barbecue.

Walkerton: Tidal Marsh Trip

Walkerton, Virginia is one of those little spots of real estate that barely show up on a map or GPS.  The King & Queen County town was once a busy little port on the Mattaponi River.  As with its upriver sister Aylett, Walkerton’s importance dwindled as more people relied on automobiles.  There is an attractive mill-pond, a couple of historic buildings, and a little gas station/country store to visit.  Civic organizations and the volunteer fire department hold different fundraisers serving delicious barbecue and Brunswick Stew.

Mattaponi Reflection (© John Gresham)

From Memorial Day to Labor Day, motorboats dominate the Mattaponi River here.  The river is tidal, but freshwater.  Water-skiing and jet-skiing are very popular with locals and those in the know.  But, things can get a bit congested here and there are a few shallow islands that one has to navigate.  This gets even trickier as the tidal current is said to be one of the swiftest in the state.  Canoeists and kayakers would do well to avoid the town on weekends.

 

Misty Foot Bridge (© John Gresham)

 

Weekdays before the Spring and Summer madness begins is a great time to paddle here.  The local fire dept. has a launch specifically for small craft (please leave a donation) and there is a kiosk of information about this stretch of the river provided by the Mattaponi/Pamunkey Rivers Association.  The freshwater tidal marsh is a fine place to admire the variety of plants growing along the shoreline.  Sunrise and sunset visits offer great opportunities for capturing a beautiful image or two with your camera.  Or, try your luck with a rod and reel.  Walkerton is known for catfish and yellow perch fishing.  But, the bass and bream provide action as well.

From Richmond, take Rt.360 East to Central Garage.  Turn Right on Rt. 30 and left on Rt. 629 (across from Hamilton-Holmes Middle School).

 

 

 

 

The Burning of the Socks: Birth of a Tradition

So if you sail into the Harbor on the 21st of March,
And you smell a smell like Limburger sautéed with laundry starch,
You’ll know you’re downwind of the Eastport docks
Where they’re burning their socks for the Equinox.

from “Ode to the Sock Burners” By Jefferson Holland, Poet Laureate of Eastport, 1995

Brad and John burning their socks (John Gresham/Va State Parks)

We took a bit of a chance at York River State Park this past Saturday.  We decided to use the Annapolis, Maryland tradition to kick-off our canoe and kayaking season.  The very idea of adults burning their socks seemed a bit silly.  But, I convinced my bosses that getting people to play with fire and water on the same day would bring people to the park. 

At Taskinas Point on the York River ( John Gresham/Va State Parks)

And did it work?  We had 39 paddlers on a day that started partly cloudy, became light rainy, and ended in downpours.  Of the guest, 24 of them were from the Hampton Roads Outdoor Adventure Meet-Up group.  Some of the others were from states as varied as Arizona and Vermont.  Had the weather been better, who knows how many would have turned out.  But my Chief Ranger, Brad Thomas, was well pleased with the attendance and told me, “There is no way we are not doing this again next year.” 

As with anything, there were some things we need to improve on.  But, a new tradition has been born at York River State Park.  The first Saturday of Spring we will celebrate the Equinox.  At Taskinas Point, we will burn our socks.

Check out Craig Leggette’s album of the event here!  Don’t wait until next year to come to the park and paddle.  Check out our paddling programs here!

Not Just The Roe

People can be so wasteful it is embarrassing.  For many decades, watermen harvested the roe (egg sacks) from certain fish and throwing the carcasses to the dogs, scavengers, or letting them rot.  This was the fate of the once numerous Atlantic Sturgeon, Blueback Herring, American and Hickory Shad.  Fortunately, all but the sturgeon remain in numbers that can be harvested with heavy restrictions.  Shad and herring roe are delicacies that fetch a high price in top restaurants.

The fish is not as adored because they have a plethora of bones.  I grew up on shad and don’t mind picking out the succulent meat.  Smoked is the best way of eating them as their oily texture readily takes on hickory flavor.  Grilling and planking are also prefered methods to frying.  But, if you really don’t want to deal with the bones, I recommend the following method for baking:

• thoroughly clean and scale a shad (leave the head on if you wish) and split the fish along the body cavity and backbone
• Generously season the flesh with lemon & pepper seasoning, liquid smoke, and sliced onion
• Close the fish up.  Cut 4 or five slits in the fish crossways and season as you did the inside.
• Place the fish in a roasting pan and add a cup of boiling water.
• Cover and bake at 250 degrees for 5 hours

Using this method, the bones will dissolve into the meat.  One bite and you will wish the shad were in season all year-long.

We Need To Return

Frederick Douglass, Harriet Tubman, and other escaped slaves and underground railroad leaders knew something about the outdoors that we modern African-Americans are failing to realize.  Whatever hazards may be in the marshes and woods, there is a greater peril to our souls to stay where we are and a greater freedom if we are willing to go through them.  Too often I get fearful responses from my kind when I try to promote doing something as simple as going to a well furnished state park, not to mention roughing it somewhere like the Appalachian Trail.  “I don’t like bugs.  There are too many snakes.  I might fall in the water.  What about tigers (alas, I am not making that up)?”  Our ancestors who ran away from slavery may have had such fears.  But, they sought something better.

Please look at where we are in society.  Our rate of illnesses such as high blood pressure, diabetes, and others are among (if not) the highest of any ethnic group.  We frequently suffer from poor diets and lack of physical activity.  Multi-channel television, video games, and cell phones are too often our main sources of entertainment.  Perhaps our modern technology, trying to make ends meet, and racist society can be blamed for some things.  But, it is our responsibility to make up our minds to leave sedentary lifestyle plantations behind as there is something to be gained by making outdoor activity a part of our lives.

There is freedom on this trail

Obviously, we will gain better health. Working up a sweat in the gym is good.  But, a hike on a mountain or along a beach is far better since the mind can relax from competition and the body takes in fresh air.  Perhaps some university has done or will do a study to prove that exercise outdoors is superior to indoors.  But, I think it makes sense that as natural beings, we are better off in natural surroundings.

Outdoor activity gives us the knowledge to overcome fear.  Sure snakes exist.  But, most are non venomous and even those with venom avoid contact with people.  Paddling a canoe or kayak allows us to explore places where motorboats can’t.  Knowing proper techniques and being aware of water conditions make this an enjoyable pursuit.  As far as tigers are concerned, avoid hiking in their cages at the circus or the zoo.  The natural world has a lot to teach us.

With the right education, interest, and skills; outdoor activity may also lead to a career.  I came to York River State Park looking for a summer job to make a little money until substitute teaching picked up again.  But, I came armed with a degree in Agricultural Education, years of public speaking, a couple of photography awards, a love for flat water kayaking, and my own blog.  I still had to work my way up.  But, I did it.  Parks, wilderness areas, and other employers are looking for people with something to enhance their operation.  Adding knowledge about mountain bikes or even a few scouting badges may lead to an open door passed over by people who are “scared of drowning in all that water.”

Co-workers and Friends Maurice, Shirley, and Mary

The one instance of racism I have encountered came from people who watched me instead of participated with me (I got “N-bombed” by a couple of knuckleheads on a distant shore as I was kayaking in my own home town).  Other than that, It seems to me that shared interest means more than race among people who love the outdoors.  Organizations such as the Chesapeake Bay Sierra Club or the Tidewater Appalachian Trail Club open their membership and friendship to anyone willing to lace up boots and hike.  Even when I am alone and not in my ranger uniform, it has not been difficult for me to make a pleasurable acquaintance on a trail or in the water.  Be yourself and respect others.  The respect will be returned.  And if it isn’t, it’s their loss, not yours.

This month, (no this year) pay some respect to those who had to traverse woods and rivers to find freedom.  Excercise your freedom to enjoy those same woods and rivers.  Overcome your fears and learn what nature has to offer.  By doing so, you will make yourself a part of an interesting and fun-filled family of humans that enjoy the outdoors.  I am so happy to be here and you will be too.

Thanks to a warmer than normal winter, why not participate in bird watching this weekend?  http://www.virginiaoutdoors.com/article/more/3521

Know the rules of the road on the trails.  http://www.virginiaoutdoors.com/article/more/3508

I Got Trails. Who Needs Treadmills?

Okay, if you have a serious medical issue or need supervision from a physical therapist or fitness trainer, use whatever exercise equipment that is recommended for your condition.  Indeed, you certainly should see a doctor before starting any exercise program.  I am no health care professional.  This is my blog and my opinion, not your prescription.

Mild Winter Hiking

With that said, I don’t do treadmills nor their related gym equipment (ellipticals, stairmasters, ect, …).  Hiking is a much better means of fitness than any machine.  Gyms are indoor boxes.  The air in them is conditioned.  Except for the televisions and people working out, the scenery in the boxes never changes.  All treadmills have buttons to push and settings to adjust making the user’s body a slave to the machine.  It is true that such equipment in such boxes are useful when outdoor conditions are unfavorable.  However, many people use bad weather as an excuse not to go to the gym as if it weren’t an enclosed, air-conditioned (or heated) box.

I am a bit spoiled because I work at a park and live near a couple of good trails.  I think fresh air is more healthy than enclosed spaces with those high-tech air refresher things.  The trails are surrounded by trees and have features such as streams, marshes, bridges, and other sights that keep the workout interesting.  The presence of birds, squirrels, and other critters tend to liven things up as well.  Sometimes it is best to go at a slower pace.  Other times, it is good to pick things up a bit.  My brain, body, and self-discipline dictate what, when, and how much I do per work out.  When the weather is colder, I wear a couple of layers of clothes.  A rain or snow day need not throw me off track.  I can make up for it when conditions improve.

Better Than TV

If you are able to hike for cardio fitness, I recommend the following steps:

• start with a trail that doesn’t have many quick changes in elevation.  gradual slopes or one or two hills are sufficient even for veteran hikers who just want to burn a few calories.
• Walk the trail at a slow pace first to familiarize yourself with it.  Know where it may get a bit muddy, icy, and other issues.  It is good to have more than one trail to hike so that you have an alternative place to go.
• Make sure your footwear has good traction.
• Use hiking poles to add some upper body motion to your hiking.
• Dress appropriately.  Use sunscreen, bug repellant and other things needed for any outdoor activity.

Greater Challenges Await